Drop in ramps have been used for decades in snowboarding. They open up a wide variety of spots to the urban shredder with a low price tag. Not to mention they are easy to use and easy to make. With some simple supplies, tools and one free afternoon you could be the proud owner of your very own.
The design outlined here is for a 6ft tall 2ft wide ramp. This height will give the rider enough speed to hit most hand rails. Conveniently it also means the longest piece (the ramps surface and sides) can each be one section of wood. This design can be modified to be bigger and smaller but beware of MATH! It will come back to bite you if you don’t compensate for your new measurements properly. And to avoid the possibility of Snowboard.com being called a nerd, we are just gonna give you the final numbers. No math will be done here.
Tools and Supplies
You’re only going to need a handful of items to pull this off. Don’t worry, your carpentry level doesn’t have to be “Jesus” to pull this one off. It’s worth noting that some eye protection is going to help you here. So step one is find some safety glasses. Next you will need the following items:
- Measuring tape
- Circular saw
- Power drill with Phillips head attachment
- 4 to 8 Clamps
- (10) 8 foot long 2×4’s
- (1) half inch thick 4ft x 8ft piece of plywood
- A box of 3 in deck screws
- A box of 1⅝ in deck screws
Making The Cuts
Talking about the various cuts is confusing. Instead, just use this image to help you make all the different sections of 2×4 you will need. All your 2×4’s should come in 8ft (96in) lengths. The thick black lines show where you need to cut and the red sections are scraps.
Assembling The Sides
Before we screw anything together we are going to mock up the sides because the next component has a tricky shape. Lay out one 6ft and one 75in section beside each other. At the top place a 2ft section and at the bottom place a 3ft section. Overlap the ends of each as shown in the photo below.
When you lay out the wood check that the angles between the 3 shortest are 90deg with your square. If you did this right then the 75in section should be a little longer than it needs to be. Go ahead and line it up with the 3 footer at the bottom so you can mark the top with your pencil to trim the excess.
Now that the outer edge of the side is mocked up, you can lay the cross member in place for its mock up. Take another 3 foot section and place it diagonally between the two 6ft and 75in sections as shown above. You will want to mark and cut the excess off these cross members so they don’t protrude from the stand. This piece cannot go straight across it makes the whole thing stronger if its diagonal. Why you ask? BECAUSE MATH… don’t make us say it again.
Once you have trimmed the end off the long 75in section go ahead and screw the cross member to the longer sections as shown. Remember to use two 3in screws at every joint. Repeat this process for the other side. You should have 2 crooked “H” shapes with no tops or bottoms screwed in. now you are done with the sides.
The Top And Bottom
The bottom box is where the frame gets its stability and the top is the frame which supports the rider when they strap in. To start on the top, grab two 2ft sections and and two 18in sections. Put the 4 pieces on their edge with the 2ft overlapping outside as shown in the image below. Screw them together in the direction of the arrows. Again use two screws at every joint.
The bottom should be done the same way only with two 3 foot sections instead of the 2ft sections.
Assemble The Stand
Clamp everything together while the stand is lying on its side then stand it up. Make sure everything is square and level so you have a sturdy tower to stand on. The last thing you want is for this to be all tippy, so don’t put screws in it unless its standing flat and sturdy. Once you have it all lined up, go ahead and screw the base together first.
The screws will be passing through the legs of the sides and into the 3 foot segments on the bottom box. Repeat for the attachment of the top box. Screw the steps of the ladder into the angled portion with screws passing through the steps (three 2ft sections) and into the 75in sections of the sides.
This is the part you slide down and in this case it is detachable for easy transport. Its construction is basically like a ladder with a plywood surface on one side.
First take your remaining whole 8ft sections and cut a 45 deg angle on the very end of each one. Next attach them with a 2ft section on the opposite end. Screws should pass through the 2ft piece and into the end of the 8ft pieces.
Now to add the cross braces. Take three 21in sections and space them evenly in the middle of the 8 footers. Screws passing through the outside surface of the 8ft lengths and into the ends of the 21in lengths.
The tricky park is the ramp’s attachment point to the stand. Screw two more 21in sections in at the orientation shown in the image below. Do this on the top end of the ramp, the one with the 45deg cuts.
Finally cut your 4ft by 8ft 1/2in thick plywood in half the long way. This will leave you with an 8ft by 2ft piece which you can screw onto the top of your ramp section. Use the 1⅝ in screws for this and the top deck.
Here’s where everything comes together. Cut a 2ft by 2ft square off your remaining plywood sheet. Screw that into the top of your stand. Then add your last piece, a 21in section in the orientation shown below. This is the mounting location for the ramp.
Now you’re done. When you want to set the ramp up just tie a rope or wrap a bungee really tight around the two sections where the ramp and stand meet. This will ensure the ramp won’t just all off. It’s a good thing that this ramp breaks down into 2 smaller sections. If you want to use this at multiple street spots it will fit easily in most truck beds. However if you want to use it for a more permanent backyard set up just screw the two sections together as you see fit.
You finally have your own drop in ramp. Isn’t she lovely?
Check out more great snowboard DIY projects here